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6. Conditioners to re-glue hair cuticles :: Posted Thursday, May 24, 2001 by admin ::
The outer layer of hair forms cuticles somewhat like fish scales and is shown in the picture to the left. A healthy strand of hair has an outer layer of scales that are laying close above each other. If scales are laying flat, the hair will look shiny, and a comb or brush will glide smoothly. The cuticles are glued down by mixtures of polypeptides - similar to the yellow liquid collagen glues used by schoolchildren such as LePage's Glue. Shampoos and soaps remove the glue-polypeptides and loosen the cuticle. High quality conditioners add small peptides back into the cuticle to glue it into place again. A small amount of pantothenic acid (vitamin B-5) is also used which helps with the glue process. If the cuticle stays open it can start a tear (see second photo at the left) in the hair shaft that ultimately leads to breakage of the hair shaft (see third photo at the left). High quality conditioners also help glue together split hair ends. The longer you leave the conditioner on the hair, the better it smoothes out the hair cuticle. Some manufacturers say only to condition for a few seconds, but longer is better.
Many conditioners today contain botanicals and herbal extracts such as extracts of juniper berries and buckhorn leaves and so forth. These herbal extracts interfere with the glue process and reduce the protective effects of the hair conditioners. Combs with unpolished teeth, sharp hair clamps and tight elastic bands can also disrupt the hair scales and produce damage. With such a damage, the strand will rip more easily, the opened scales do not allow other strands to glide over as smooth as before, which can result in tangles.
Conditioners should be at a low pH of 4.0 to 4.5. The hair proteins remain very strong at a low pH and shampoos - with their higher pH - should be completely rinsed out of hair. Higher pH's start unraveling the protein strands and loosen and break the hair. A small amount of fat is added to give the hair a better shine.
Hot oil treatment conditionersare the latest marketing ploy from the cosmetic companies. The idea dates back to the 1950's when hot oil treatments were first marketed by Alberto Culver. The basic idea is that the application of heat drives the conditioners - oils, peptides, etc. - deeper into the hair shaft and the hair looks better for a short time. However, the high heat - about 250 degree F. from a hot air dryer - will ultimately damage the hair follicles - which cannot take heat much about 120 degrees F. - and the follicles will produce less hair and thinner hair.
Where to get good shampoos and conditioners? The best products are sold in successful hair salons. The salons need happy, repeat customers and usually do not advertise their products.
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